February 28 - Day 2 in Bangkok

Today was the beginning of our two-day extension of our trip so that we would have additional time to see more of Bangkok. Our private guide for these two days was Nid, as arranged by A&K. He arrived at 8:30 AM with the driver, Ton, and our vehicle, a large Toyota van. As we departed the hotel, Nid pointed out the BTS Sky Train bridge and explained that the above ground train was better suited for Bangkok, since the ground here is too soft for a subway system, but new technology may alter that assessment. As an introduction he told us that the name Bangkok is a western name, not used in Thailand. Here the people call the city Krung Thep, which means “City of Angels.” The western name Bangkok came from the Thai word bang, which means village and a bastardization of the word for olive tree, kokoc. As we crossed the Taksin Bridge (named for a king) over the river, we observed that there were more cars in Bangkok and fewer scooters than what we had observed in Vietnamese cities. Nid pointed out that we were actually not seeing any scooters, but rather motorcycles. He also told us bus transportation is inexpensive here, 30 cents for a bus without air conditioning, 65 cents for a bus with air conditioning. Some of the motorcycles were actually taxis – driver in front, passenger riding behind. This is faster than an automobile taxi, since the motorcycle can “lane split” and pass vehicles stuck in traffic. Nid also told us that Bangkok doesn’t have many bridges, since it is usually faster to ride a ferry across the river. On the other side of the bridge, Nid pointed out a large building with a large billboard. The building was unfinished. Construction was halted in 1997 with the collapse of the “Asian Tiger” economies and was never restarted. We also passed a tall building with a golden dome with the restaurant Sirocco on the top floor. Nid also explained that Bangkok is a city with many “centers,” not just one.

Our van proceeded down the Silam Road toward our first destination: the Wat Kaew Market. Immediately when we arrived, we saw so many food stands on the sidewalk. Nid told us that buying from street vendors is more economical than from a restaurant. One thing that was interesting to see was all of the plastic bags containing food for takeaway. Nid said that many people live in apartments without kitchens (himself included), so takeaway food is essential. They are called microwave families. Right away we tried a fried donut type pastry called patongko that are fried in pairs. We also tried two types of grilled bananas – two different flavors for sure. We also tried saku sai moo, a tapioca dumpling with beef and nuts inside. There were fruit and vegetable vendors as well. We saw the small green eggplants that we had eaten in a green curry, plus the rose apple and the longan berry, which we also sampled – sweet and good. Apparently, this berry is available in the US in canned form. We also saw a stand selling the breakfast dish, congee. We also saw a pink preserved duck egg, which will last for seven to ten days packed in salt. Before we left, Nid purchased for us “lady finger” bananas to enjoy later. He explained that Thais have many different varieties of bananas like we have apples. The Thai word for banana is “kleay” or “keaw.” The word for banana also means easy or simple.

From here, we then went to Wat Traimit to see the Golden Buddha, which is 5 ½ tons of solid gold! The sun is fully out now, and it has become quite hot. The Buddha figure is displayed in a temple that is only thirteen years old, paid for by Chinese benefactors. The Golden Buddha is estimated to be seven hundred years old and dates from the Sukhothai (first kingdom) era. It is unknown when or how it came to be in Bangkok. At some point that statue was plastered over with stucco to conceal its true value. Perhaps it was located in the old capital of Ayutthaya and may have been hidden from the Burmese who destroyed Ayutthaya in 1767. Later, the true nature of the figure was apparently forgotten, although it was the property of Wat Traimit, a minor temple of no significance. The figure actually sat in a crude storage structure from 1935 to 1955. In 1955, it was to be moved to a new temple building and during the move, the stucco cracked and broke away, revealing the Golden Buddha beneath. The actual figure is composed of nine separate interlocking pieces, which proves that it is solid gold. The Buddha is very impressive to see. The position is seated with the hand position called “subduing mara,” which means victory over enemies. The Buddha figure has hair of rose gold. Inside there were also two naga figures made from palm leaves. Outside there was a display of the various positions of Buddha figures, one for each day of the week. The walking Buddha is known as the “teaching Buddha,” and represents Monday, the day of the week that Roy was born. Hands together in the lap is the “meditating Buddha,” which precedes enlightenment. The “sleeping Buddha” signifies death, or gone to nirvana. We also saw figures of monkeys and elephants making offerings to Buddha.

Our next stop is Bangkok’s Chinatown. Its current location was established in 1782, when it was moved to accommodate the Royal Palace compound. On the way we passed the tallest building in Bangkok, which looks like a game of Jenga. It is owned by the businessman who owns the Leicester soccer team in England. Sadly, he died in a helicopter crash. When we arrived in Chinatown, Nid explained that 35% of the people in Bangkok have some Chinese heritage. They speak a dialect of Chinese, but will speak Thai as well. In Chinatown, we visited the “old market.” We saw a lot. At the entrance we saw a wide variety of crabs (alive) both from the sea and the river. Then we passed a display of durian fruit, well known for its bad smell. Nid called it the “king of fruit” for its size. It is also spiky. Now we were intrigued enough to want to try a piece, which Nid procured from the vendor. It tasted good, rather mild. Nid explained, “Tastes like paradise, smells like hell.” The fruit is so large that it would take several days to eat just one. Another result is “durian breath” like garlic breath.

We also saw the fruit from the gingko tree, which we tried. It tasted like a chestnut. There were also dried longan berries. In more than one stand vendors were selling purple triangular shaped dumplings that looked like pork chops. Nid said these dumplings had a vegetable filling, but the color looked very unappetizing. As we made our way through the market, we were amused to see people on motorbikes also traveling through.

We took a detour from the market to visit a Chinese Buddhist temple. It featured more red colors and dragons than the typical Thai temple. The Chinese use red as an imperial color and also prefer dragons to nagas. There are also lion guardians at the door. It is the Leng Buai Ia shrine at the Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. This is most important Chinese temple in Bangkok. The king came here to celebrate the Chinese New Year. There were also large photos of his sister and daughter in front of the temple. His daughter is his only legitimate child. The king himself has had a failed marriage, but with no divorce. He is now with mistress #5 and has had many illegimate children. Nid taught us how to say happy new year for the Chinese New Year (zin jia yu ie OR zin ne hua cha), the Thai New Year, April 13 (suk san wan songkan) and the western New Year (sa wad di pee mai). 

After we departed, we saw paper version of gifts that you can purchase for your ancestors. Do you want your late grandfather to have an iPhone in heaven? Buy a paper one and then send it to him (which means you burn it). 

Back in the van, we learned that there are about four hundred temples in Bangkok. We passed an old teak house that Nid told us belongs to a wealthy family. We drove along Mahana Road, which follows a canal and had a ton of shops set up in tents selling everything from cheap clothing to fruit. Bangkok was once known for its canals, called the “Venice of the East,” but now the canals are not really used for anything. We also commented on the all of the pink taxicabs.

Before lunch, we visited one more food market, the Nang Leng market, Bangkok’s oldest. It is very busy as many people came here to buy their lunch. The market has a seating area just like a western food court. 

We tried a variety of interesting items here. First we had Keaw Tom Mad: sticky rice, coconut milk, and bean wrapped in a banana leaf. This is a small bite known as an “all day snack.” Next we had a chive dumpling, which was in a folded Thai traditional pancake (like a taco). 

We also had an ice dessert called Wan Yen. It had lotus seed, water chestnut, gingko seed, dried longan berry, and syrup poured on top. Wan Yen means “sweet cold.” 

As we departed, we saw a package of assorted items to buy and assemble at home to make Meng Kam. It had peanut, ginger, etc., to wrap in a betel leaf. We were able to try one (without the green chili) – it was really good!

Time for lunch! Yes, we could eat some more! We boarded the van and passed the former royal palace, now the headquarters for the Royal Thai Army with giant photos of the king. We were driving down the King’s Walk Road and passed the old fort outside the royal palace where there is the old city wall. Then we passed the giant democracy monument built in 1932, when the constitutional monarchy was established under King Rama VIII.

Lunch was at a restaurant called Krua Apsorn. It was nothing fancy to look at, but clean and really super tasty! We had green papaya salad, prepared bland for western tourists, featherback fish balls in green curry sauce, pork massaman curry, and pad see ew with chicken. We later learned that tod mun (fish cake), one of our favorites, was on the menu, but we didn’t know to order it.

After lunch we proceeded on foot to Wat Suthat, which is also not too far from the royal palace in the old part of the city. We passed a giant swing on the way, formerly used for Hindu rituals, but not for the past twenty years due to safety concerns. 

We also passed a “Buddha warehouse,” where Buddha figures are manufactured and sold. 

Nid also took us past Dr. Waan’s house, a historical site where a Thai doctor practiced traditional medicine from 1870 through 1945.

Arriving at Wat Suthat, we began our very interesting education about Thai Buddhist temples courtesy of our guide, Nid. Buddhist temples consist of a variety of buildings. The building called Ubosot is the most important building in the temple (wat), but it is not necessarily the largest building. It is used for the ordination of monks. The other important building in the wat is called the Viharn (sometimes spelled Vihan or Wihan). It is often the larger structure and is sometimes referred to as the “sermon hall.” At the wat, we also toured the gallery of Buddha images, where cremation remains are either underneath the Buddha image or in the wall. It is like a cemetery. In order to have your cremated remains here, a donation to the wat is required. Nid’s own mother has paid $1,000 for such spot in a temple. The actual figure has a black lacquer finish that gold leaf is then applied to for a final golden finish. We saw “Buddhas in progress,” that have yet to be fully finished.

We made our way to a smaller temple in the back of the complex in a residential area for the monks. Nid had made arrangements for both of us to make an offering to the wat. The process involved us sitting on our legs (hard on the knees) while the monk recited a long prayer. We then offered a package of goods, which included a monk’s robe and a basket of necessities/toiletries for them to use. The monk then splashed some water on us using what looked like a tiny broom. We then offered an envelope containing money. The process continued as we poured water into a dish. Then we placed a second envelope into a box and took the water dish outside and poured the water onto a plant. This small temple also featured two notable Buddha figures.
 

After we finished the offering, Nid pointed out an important architectural feature. Around a temple in each of the four corners, there will be a post with either one stela or two. One stela means that the temple was built with donations from the public. Two stelae means that it is a royal temple built by the king. This temple was built by Rama I about two hundred years ago. Thus, there are two stelae. 

At the Viharn there is also a seven hundred-year-old Buddha image from the Sukhothai era. The beautiful door was carved by King Rama II. Outside the temple is a statue of Rama VII. Nid pointed out up high a three headed elephant ridden by Indra (Hindu). Brahma rides a swan. Hindu imagery was used two hundred years ago when this temple was built. It would not be used today.

We then drove to Bangkok’s extensive flower market to tour, passing a statue of Rama I by the green metal bridge (Bangkok’s oldest bridge). We also saw the giant white Ceylonese pagoda. In the flower market, there was so much to see, white jasmine buds, wrist corsages (nothing like ours in the west), everlasting flowers (small, purple), folded lotus flowers, and yellow marigolds everywhere. Unfortunately, our day ended with a slow drive through Bangkok traffic back to the hotel.

Dinner was at the hotel’s fancy Thai restaurant, called Thiptara, which was not nearly as good as what we had for lunch. However, we did enjoy a white wine from Thailand.